Of training to be a foodie entrepreneur
(or, what I have recently been doing...)

www.burroesalvia.co.uk

As Italians we care about the food we prepare and eat, and we enjoy having conversations about it.

While imagining our Pastificio, what sprang to mind were images of Italian homes, memories of good things and manners, and the wholesome food of our kitchens.

To approach fresh pasta is to discover simple, honest principles that embody a world of good taste.

Fresh pasta is our daily comfort and a reassuring territory: it speaks of passion and creativity, tradition and nostalgia, generosity and pride - quintessentially Italian values that have spanned generations.

Fresh pasta is simply a return to our basics.

It is about a process, small rituals and slowing down: making things instead of buying them ready-made, or enjoying a meal at home with family and friends.

Fresh pasta is a lifestyle and a culture that is the envy of the world. 

Burro e Salvia is proud to bring it to London.

A foodie tube map

http://cheesenbiscuits.blogspot.co.uk/

An effortlessly luxurious getaway

I have a discussion going on with my friend Daniel on what luxury should be today, particularly in the area of hospitality. Living in London one immediately looks at 5 star properties, to eventually find out that amongst all the opulence of the marbles, fabrics and chandeliers, it's on the details that most properties are losing the message.
When I think luxury I think of effortless, meaning a pair of Hunter boots available for clients going on a walk or a freshly picked salad and home made bread. In their simplicity, these things can cost money to be found, but more importantly they require some good thinking to be developed and kept in place.
And so last week I went for a quick weekday (a luxury by definition) getaway to the New Forest. Such a lovely place, just an little over an hour away from London. I had read several reviews about The Pig Hotel and its restaurant and I was really keen to try it. Basically a chic country house with 26 rooms, where I stayed in what is considered the smallest size, absolutely adorable and featuring a great view on the garden outside.

Speaking of gardens, we are talking serious stuff over there. Not only does the Hotel feature a massive garden where to walk, play tennis or enjoy a drink in the summer, but the chef also has a walled garden where all sort of greens are grown and are - as the menu states - "literally picked in the morning" to create for example a delicious Tempura Vegetables with Lemon Verbena and Baby Caper Mayonnaise. 
The whole menu is developed around the idea of "max 25 miles away", thus featuring products such as Hampshire partridge, Dorset snails, New Forest mushrooms and cured meats, and more seafood and meat from local suppliers. The dining room is cozy, resembling a chic nursery.

I booked my stay and dinner through their website directly, but a good gallery of images to get the full picture is also available on http://www.mrandmrssmith.com/luxury-hotels/the-pig/photos
As always, when I find a place I love I am torn between sharing the news or keep it for the few good friends who I am sure would enjoy the experience. In this case I am confident the place would not appeal to the masses, nor to those looking for bling. So we can keep it as a secret address.

Ciccio Supremo

I am a woman with expectations, never lied about it. One who tries a lot, likes a lot, complains a lot.
Talking of which, my passion for food has proved to be a challenging territory both personally and professionally.
When it comes to restaurants and food concepts, I realize that I have over time become picky, if not suspicious. It must be London, where so much is happening every day; restaurants, bars, pop ups launch, and it's all about the design, the food, the drinks, the experience, the chef in charge, the chef behind, the people....So many stories are made up (mostly for our fault, the PR people...) and I have recently gone back to appreciating the simpler, reassuring certainties of my favorite places rather than adventuring myself to be eventually disillusioned by the banality and poor substance of many.

So, my short trip to Italy a week ago turned out to be the most reassuring experience of recent times. Going to the usual places, those trattorie where you know you'll never be disappointed, where the chef or the owner is always around to come and say hi and share some of his "wisdom".
However, I had on my "to try" list a few new spots too. Such as Locanda del Colonnello in whimsical Modica, where chef Accursio Craparo has developed a peasant menu focusing on traditional dishes of the territory, and the most iconic Sicilian Cibo da Strada (Street Food) becomes an Antipasto, which is brought to the table simply in a bread bag.
But then something else was on the list. A very special invitation to dine at Ciccio Sultano's 2 Michelin star Ristorante Duomo in remote Ragusa Ibla. One that could have had all possible developments and conclusions.
Ciccio Sultano, I had experienced before, is a man by the intriguing character. He represents what, as a young lady from the North, I have always loved about men of the South: that natural mix of warmth-charm-culture-sense of humour, with a touch of grumpiness. And in this specific case with the huge bonus of supreme cooking skills.
As usual, I am not going into the details of each of the 14 amongst amuse-bouche, starters, pasta and desserts I have tasted (images below). I can only say it has been one of those moment in life when all my senses all of a sudden have reminded each other that oh! they could work together and generate such a state of... scrummy accomplishment. Grazie chef...

Cannolo with Caviar and raw Sicilian Red Prawn

The Spoons

The Cups

Rock Red Mullet Filled 
With Savona Bitter Orange and Cold Lemon Soup-Mojito
(From Sicilian Country To Cuba)

Spaghettino with Bisque on a bed of Leonforte Lentils

Truffle Ice Cream in crunchy Biscuit

Ciccio's Pasta With Sardines

Spaghetti with “Tuna Mussels”
Melissa Sauce, Thyme Citrodoro and Bergamot
And “Sammurigghiu Russu”

Happy Birthday to me! Cannolo Di Ricotta With Warm Prickly Pear Soup,
Served With Avola Almond Sorbet

Mini version of a Ricotta Cassata (front) and Baba'

The wines that matched the food, as suggested by Head Sommelier Valerio Capriotti...

Etna bianco Valcerasa 2009, Alice Bonaccorsi

Grillo 2008, Nino Barraco

Reseca 2006, Gulfi

Moscato della Torre 2011, Marabino

My favorite dishes in London- part 1
Last week Time Out magazine published a list of interesting food suggestions where instead of reviewing the establishments, food critics have come up with a shortlist of their most recent favourite dishes...
Not only did I enjoy it and I was pleased to see that some were my favorites too, but I thought of sharing a few of mine. Here is the first part....

Anchovy Toast @ Bistro Union

Selection of Charcuterie @ Terroirs

Quail's egg shooters with Bath Pig chorizo @ Mark Hix Bar

Grilled Ham, Bubble & Squeak, 2 Poched Eggs & Hollandaise @ Caravan

Classic Tortilla @ Barrafina

Buta-Bara yuzu miso (Grilled pork skewer with yuzu and miso) @ Zuma

 Turnip Cake @ Yauatcha

Hiya Hatsu (Cold noodle with hot broth) @ Koya

Crudo @ Pescheria Mattiucci

Mini Ibérico Pork and Foie Gras Burger @ Opera Tavern

Italians (and pop-up's) used to do it better

Having worked and enjoyed the food industry for some time, I've been recently wondering whether pop ups ("outlets that are opened temporarily to take advantage of a trend or a seasonal product") were still trendy and innovative as they were when they spread all over the world a few years ago.

Restaurants have definitely been some of the most successful pop-ups of recent years, with chefs bringing to life concepts and recipes that wouldn't necessarily work in their fast paced, cost conscious kitchens.

Last Sunday I attended one and I want to make it clear: if the overall evening was very enjoyable, it's mostly because I was in good company, and less about the food and the atmosphere.

Pret a Diner (subtitled Italians do it Better) presents its London edition as a Dining Experience rather than a Pop up, with the following paragraph explaining the Tradizione vs Evoluzione (Tradition vs Evolution) concept behind:

"It's a stroll through Italy - from the rough heights of the Alps to the endless vistas of deep blue sea. A showcase of the pure dolce vita: From simple fisherman's fare to molecular cuisine. From the works of rebellious Italian street artists to the sophisticated creations of sharp-minded intellectual minds. From Italian love songs to Italian electro House DJs. No less than the final proof that “Italians do it better”. Better than “ciao bella”. Better than pasta and pizza. Better than Berlusconi. Better than machismo. Better than ever."

With a  creative direction by the same people who brought to life the Minotaur at the Old Vic Tunnel last year and the much loved Italian chef Giorgio Locatelli, you would only expect some amazing food in some amazing location. With a menu at £75 pp for 3 courses (dessert at an additional £9) created by either Giorgio (tradizione) or the guest chefs (evoluzione), plus some products by premium brands such as Monograno Felicetti, your Pasta con ragu di triglia (red mullet pasta) should be cooked properly al dente. It wasn't. And the Tuna and Decadence Burgers should be served in decent, soft - yet crunchy, buns. They weren't.

Anyway, the guest chef of the night - originally planned to be the man of the mountains Norbert Niederkofler, and eventually turning out to be Sicilian Accursio Craparo, proposed some interesting contrasts of textures. His Evoluzione menu was definitely tasty yet very delicate, from Starter to Dessert. His Surreal Cannolo was an evolution of a true classic: a cloud of ricotta sprinkled with candied orange, almonds and chocolate and the cannolo itself almost as an accessory.

Too bad for the drinks choice. The wine sponsor being La Spinetta, you could only choose from Piemontese or Tuscan wines at an average price of £80 per bottle. Not necessarily the perfect match with a Sicilian themed dinner, nor with most of the other upcoming dinners in mind. Alternatively you could go for a Peroni at £6 or a bottle of San Benedetto water at £8.50.

But then I also attended a couple of entertaining dinners by Young & Foodish, the brainchild of food critic Daniel Young, and I thought that chefs and organizers should remember not to take themselves too seriously. At least when they pop up.

The local restaurant: Bistro Union

Amongst my recent finds is this cool bistro in the heart of one of my favourite neighborhoods in London, recently launched by the same Adam Byatt of Trinity Restaurant in Clapham.
Not too much to say besides that - as I was in the area 3 times on the same week or so - I've been there twice already. It says it all.
Bistro Union is, like most of my favourite places in London and elsewhere, about simple dishes at  reasonable prices. It's the kind of place where you feel like trying a little of everything.
To start with, bread came with a butter to die for (if I remember well at Trinity they make their own butter, so that could be the reason). And then more Anchovy Toast came, or rather bread spread with a delicious Anchoiade sauce and a boiled Duck Egg on the side.
A fish finger had the size of a kid's sandwich, i.e in a couple of bites it was gone. But then again, so nice to try all the small dishes, which by the way start at £2...
We then had the simplest yet special Baked Aubergine with mint and cow's curd (which turned out to be sort of a ricotta), and a substantial Fish Pie (with salmon, white fish and peas).
Desserts all sounded intriguingly "retro" . We had the Poached Rhubarb and the Tapioca with raspberry jam. They both came with custard on the side, which as with the butter tasted of freshly made with some very special milk of some very happy cows.
The atmosphere and the crowd made me feel I wasn't in London but rather in a smaller village. And I wished I was a neighbour ...
www.bistrounion.co.uk