Having worked and enjoyed the food industry for some time, I've been recently wondering whether pop ups ("outlets that are opened temporarily to take advantage of a trend or a seasonal product") were still trendy and innovative as they were when they spread all over the world a few years ago.
Restaurants have definitely been some of the most successful pop-ups of recent years, with chefs bringing to life concepts and recipes that wouldn't necessarily work in their fast paced, cost conscious kitchens.
Last Sunday I attended one and I want to make it clear: if the overall evening was very enjoyable, it's mostly because I was in good company, and less about the food and the atmosphere.
Pret a Diner (subtitled Italians do it Better) presents its London edition as a Dining Experience rather than a Pop up, with the following paragraph explaining the Tradizione vs Evoluzione (Tradition vs Evolution) concept behind:
"It's a stroll through Italy - from the rough heights of the Alps to the
endless vistas of deep blue sea. A showcase of the pure dolce vita:
From simple fisherman's fare to molecular cuisine. From the works of
rebellious Italian street artists to the sophisticated creations of
sharp-minded intellectual minds. From Italian love songs to Italian
electro House DJs. No less than the final proof that “Italians do it
better”. Better than “ciao bella”. Better than pasta and pizza. Better
than Berlusconi. Better than machismo. Better than ever."
With a creative direction by the same people who brought to life the Minotaur at the Old Vic Tunnel last year and the much loved Italian chef Giorgio Locatelli, you would only expect some amazing food in some amazing location. With a menu at £75 pp for 3 courses (dessert at an additional £9) created by either Giorgio (tradizione) or the guest chefs (evoluzione), plus some products by premium brands such as Monograno Felicetti, your Pasta con ragu di triglia (red mullet pasta) should be cooked properly al dente. It wasn't. And the Tuna and Decadence Burgers should be served in decent, soft - yet crunchy, buns. They weren't.
Anyway, the guest chef of the night - originally planned to be the man of the mountains Norbert Niederkofler, and eventually turning out to be Sicilian Accursio Craparo, proposed some interesting contrasts of textures. His Evoluzione menu was definitely tasty yet very delicate, from Starter to Dessert. His Surreal Cannolo was an evolution of a true classic: a cloud of ricotta sprinkled with candied orange, almonds and chocolate and the cannolo itself almost as an accessory.
Too bad for the drinks choice. The wine sponsor being La Spinetta, you could only choose from Piemontese or Tuscan wines at an average price of £80 per bottle. Not necessarily the perfect match with a Sicilian themed dinner, nor with most of the other upcoming dinners in mind. Alternatively you could go for a Peroni at £6 or a bottle of San Benedetto water at £8.50.
But then I also attended a couple of entertaining dinners by Young & Foodish, the brainchild of food critic Daniel Young, and I thought that chefs and organizers should remember not to take themselves too seriously. At least when they pop up.
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