no Kitchen Orphan

Review: Brawn

I have to admit in 4 years in London I haven't been to the much talked about Terroirs yet. So when I read another review on the youngest brother, Brawn on Columbia Road, I decided it was time to give it a try. We went with our friends Francesca and Luca, with whom we share the most passionate love for food. And particularly for wine bars. Back in Italy we would easily catch up in Vinerie and Osterie with a glass of wine and some nibbles. So I always wondered why in the UK there is no equivalent: it's either drinks only or more of a proper dinner, although tapas style.
Late August in London this year is looking very autumny, so a glass of red and some pork looked like a comfy option.
We had an unexpectedly interesting Pinot Noir from Alsace (Pierre Frick), which was naturally not the Pinot Noir I am used to love, yet it was well balanced and fresh in the mouth.
But honestly the protagonist of the dinner (£ 25 each including wine and tip) was the food. We ordered quite a selection, as the best is to share dishes. We had the most amazing Pork terrine; boiled Quail' eggs still warm and soft; Hand Chopped Tuscan Style Beef; my favourite of the evening Baked Field Mushrooms, Bone Marrow, Parsley & Alsace Bacon; Dorset Clams, Ham, Chilli & Garlic; Pigs Trotters Sauce Gribiche; and unexpectedly a fantastic al dente Mushroom and Parsely risotto. In pure Italian style we topped up on the Sourdough bread a few times. And we ended with 2 desserts to share. My memory has retained the simplest yet most delicious warm peach with marsala custard and pistachios.
It was delicious and made me feel less depressed about the weather.
Brawn is closed on Sunday evenings. www.brawn.co