Ciccio Supremo

I am a woman with expectations, never lied about it. One who tries a lot, likes a lot, complains a lot.
Talking of which, my passion for food has proved to be a challenging territory both personally and professionally.
When it comes to restaurants and food concepts, I realize that I have over time become picky, if not suspicious. It must be London, where so much is happening every day; restaurants, bars, pop ups launch, and it's all about the design, the food, the drinks, the experience, the chef in charge, the chef behind, the people....So many stories are made up (mostly for our fault, the PR people...) and I have recently gone back to appreciating the simpler, reassuring certainties of my favorite places rather than adventuring myself to be eventually disillusioned by the banality and poor substance of many.

So, my short trip to Italy a week ago turned out to be the most reassuring experience of recent times. Going to the usual places, those trattorie where you know you'll never be disappointed, where the chef or the owner is always around to come and say hi and share some of his "wisdom".
However, I had on my "to try" list a few new spots too. Such as Locanda del Colonnello in whimsical Modica, where chef Accursio Craparo has developed a peasant menu focusing on traditional dishes of the territory, and the most iconic Sicilian Cibo da Strada (Street Food) becomes an Antipasto, which is brought to the table simply in a bread bag.
But then something else was on the list. A very special invitation to dine at Ciccio Sultano's 2 Michelin star Ristorante Duomo in remote Ragusa Ibla. One that could have had all possible developments and conclusions.
Ciccio Sultano, I had experienced before, is a man by the intriguing character. He represents what, as a young lady from the North, I have always loved about men of the South: that natural mix of warmth-charm-culture-sense of humour, with a touch of grumpiness. And in this specific case with the huge bonus of supreme cooking skills.
As usual, I am not going into the details of each of the 14 amongst amuse-bouche, starters, pasta and desserts I have tasted (images below). I can only say it has been one of those moment in life when all my senses all of a sudden have reminded each other that oh! they could work together and generate such a state of... scrummy accomplishment. Grazie chef...

Cannolo with Caviar and raw Sicilian Red Prawn

The Spoons

The Cups

Rock Red Mullet Filled 
With Savona Bitter Orange and Cold Lemon Soup-Mojito
(From Sicilian Country To Cuba)

Spaghettino with Bisque on a bed of Leonforte Lentils

Truffle Ice Cream in crunchy Biscuit

Ciccio's Pasta With Sardines

Spaghetti with “Tuna Mussels”
Melissa Sauce, Thyme Citrodoro and Bergamot
And “Sammurigghiu Russu”

Happy Birthday to me! Cannolo Di Ricotta With Warm Prickly Pear Soup,
Served With Avola Almond Sorbet

Mini version of a Ricotta Cassata (front) and Baba'

The wines that matched the food, as suggested by Head Sommelier Valerio Capriotti...

Etna bianco Valcerasa 2009, Alice Bonaccorsi

Grillo 2008, Nino Barraco

Reseca 2006, Gulfi

Moscato della Torre 2011, Marabino

Persone croccanti
Not sure if English people have such an expression as "una persona croccante", literally meaning " a crunchy (or crispy) person". Italians, or at least people in Emilia Romagna, do use it to talk of someone who is not necessarily young of age, but definitely of heart, active and passionate. I love this expression and surely will use it more in the future.
I've just come back from one of my foodie weekends with Francesco feeling so fulfilled by the generosity of people, their fantastic produce and the pride they put in what they do.
Being myself a (young) lady from the North, or as Fra would say a "savoiarda", I admit a lack of spontaneous passion by many from my region, Piemonte. Instead, every time I visit Bologna and Emilia Romagna I realize they have a completely different DNA, and for the best.
This is the picture of the loveliest group of Sfogline (traditionally the women who make fresh pasta). Having spent hardly 2 days with them making pasta, chatting non stop about tradition, chefs and recipes, and eventually enjoying the flavours and texture of the pasta during a delicious dinner at Monica's place, I now have very little words left and will leave it to these pics to say it all.

Daniela, Monica, their mom, and Rosa

Once again I visited my favourite restaurant in the area, of which I wrote twice last year. Once again Amerigo has not disappointed any of my guests. No need to say more...beside the fact that no, the below is not all I had by myself.

Roasted Calzagatti wrapped in lard, Giardiniera salad, Parmesan Cheese ice cream on a warm tigella bread and balsamic

Passatelli with sausage "mezzamatta" and crispy savoy cabbage

Caramelle with pumpkin and shaves of Parmesan Cheese

Tortelloni with Modena ham and cream of Parmesan Cheese

Baccala' (cod) Bologna style

Eggs new and old style with 2 winter truffles

Lambrusco wine sorbet

Mandarin sorbet and Crema come una volta

Shared memories
"As a child, there was a definite downside to this Italian obsession with health. Summers on the beach for instance. Swimming after food was a complete no-no.
We were fed horror stories about children who had disobeyed the no-swimming rule, only to be hit by intestinal cramps in the water, something which apparently turned you blue in the face and caused you to drown.
This meant the hottest part of the day - the hours after lunch - were spent sitting on the beach watching the foreign kids frolic in the surf. The Italians shook their heads sadly at this blatant parental ignorance.
A full meal required a three hour no-swimming rule. A couple of biscuits might set you back half an hour. Every minute counted. "Can I go in yet?" would be met by, say, "Eleven minutes to go."

Read the full article by Manuela Saragosa on www.bbc.co.uk/news/magazine-16141184

Gaia & Lele, Sardinia

The safety of beautiful objects (and words)

Over the past few weeks I've been thinking more and more about the role of blogs and what is the use that (normal) people make of them. I have to say, I'm getting annoied by all the frustrated, angry voices of unaccomplished journalists, artists, foodies...and many other disciplines one might just not be suitable for.

When I decided to launch my blog  I never thought I would scream or express any negative sentiment. Why would I need an electronic device to tell people if I am upset? What drove me to start posting was rather my passion for something, and the desire to share thoughts and stories about beautiful things.

Working and living in a foodie environment is one exceptional experience, a challenging one though. As in many jobs, one gets so taken by that world to eventually forget that there is something else in life. And yet, when all you talk and do is about food, I don't feel that guilty..

So it is with the greatest excitement that last Friday I received not a Lanvin dress nor a pair of Margiela shoes (which however I'd love to wear on my long days at Massimo ). It was instead a designer's pasta pan, designed not by coincidence by two Piemontese brothers. Angiolina is a good example of how design can spring out of stories, of tales. And its story begins during a war, the Second World War. “Granny Angiolina used to cook pasta in sauce cans instead of throwing them away”. The Adriano brothers were so touched by the story that they designed this pasta pan as a tribute to their grandmother...

Whoever's been reading my blog for some time should know how strongly I believe in traditions that are able to achieve a new contemporary appeal. If out of them emerge beautiful objects, that's all I need to get by. And some amazing food.

The art of setting up a table
A series of fun, chic. unusual tables have been set up during the recent edition of Host at Milano Rho Fiera and organised by AD magazine. Enjoy....

No need to say more

Vitello tonnato come una volta

Raggio di sole

Tajarin al ragu di salsiccia di bra

Monte Bianco

Castello di Neive Barbaresco, 2007

Amongst the stunning hills of Langhe in Piemonte, in the lovely village of La Morra, known by the experts for being one of the key regions of the Nebbiolo grape, the restaurant Bovio (formerly Belvedere) has been a point of reference for gourmands from all over the world. Their recipe: the classics of the tradition made to perfection + the best mushrooms and white truffle in season + one of the most complete wine selections of the area. Booking required especially during truffle season. 

Holiday memories

So here I am, end of July in an uncertain London weather, my summer holiday a long gone memory. It's been a very Mediterranean one though, with Greece, Italy and Southern France's sun, sea and food doing some real good to my body and mind. A little tan, I think, makes one always feel confident and happy. Plus I have been to some of the simplest, yet fantastic, accomodations and small restaurants. So here they are, my memories and suggestions for relaxing, eating and sleeping....

Paros Island, Greece

What a surprise this island in the Cyclades, so close to the very crowded and less authentic Mykonos (although lovely in early July and I guess in September too)! We stayed in Naoussa, such a charming village which retains some of its picturesque style with the little port and the fishing boats, but at the same time offers nice accomodation, tavernas with authentic food and nice shops. We stayed at Heaven Naoussa, the loveliest b&b where Alexandra the owner is such a host! Everything from the rooms to the breakfast served in the morning on the terrace and all the suggestions for beaches and restaurants was perfect. Here are a few pics but the website shows more details for the rooms (I understand Alexandra's dad is a local architect with such taste!).

The best way to travel on Paros is with public transport from Naoussa if you go to the most famous beaches (Monastiri, Livadia...) or with a car if one wants to find untouched places such as the ones below (Agia Irini on the western side, while on the eastern side the whole route from Santa Maria down to Golden Beach is a succession of sandy beaches and turquoise sea)

Athens, Gazi quarter
If one is obliged to stay in Athens for a night to catch the ferry or a flight to the islands, the Baby Grand Hotel is a good option, but the real surprise of the trip was the Gazi quarter, a trendy area around the old gasworks of the city with restaurants and bars where to enjoy classics such as fried squids, roasted sardines with oregano at Sardeles sipping a local beer that was surprisingly crisp and refreshing or local lamb and other cured meats at The Butcher Shop.

Naples, Pasticceria Scaturchio
On the piazza San Domenico, this traditional Pasticceria serves all the delicious classics: pastiera, baba', sfogliatella, and even a chocolate medallion called Ministeriale. yum!!

Bologna, Amerigo dal 1934
I have dedicated an hommage to this place on the hills outside of Bologna a few months ago. I wanted Oscar to try it too, as the food was so delicious. This time we also stayed at their Locanda, in room n. 1 and I can only confirm what I previously wrote about the food. Outstanding!

copyright Amerigo dal 1934

copyright Amerigo dal 1934

Nice, Bistrot Antoine
The place to go for authentic southern France food in a frendly and casual bistro. Great food and great value for money in a city and area (the old town) that rarely satifies the real foodies. Very hard to get a reservation though! The unmissable from my list are the Tomatoes salad "a' la Antoine" (tomatoes of different shapes and colours simply with basil and extra virgin olive oil), the Cocotte de Cochon (stewed pork served in its pan on a bed a soft polenta), Fresh sardines on toast and even a Risotto with Truffle Oil! There is a daily market menu which features specials both "de terre" and "de la mer". and featuring the most fantastic greens from the nearby daily market of Cours Saleya. Sipping rose' wine from Ramatuelle.

Nice, Desert and Autour du monde
After all this sun and sea and food (loads of food), I found time for a little shopping in Nice. Two of my favourites are Desert (rue Alphonse Karr) which features the French effortless icons Isabel Marant, Vanessa Bruno, Chloe', Repetto...) and more cool fashion brands. And Autour du monde, the shop of iconic Bensimon sneakers that celebrities such as Jane Birkin or more recently Naomi Watts all have worn. I have one for each of my favourite summery colours: blue, sand, coral!

Eze, Anjouna restaurant
Before flying back to London, a touch of super (expensive) chic on the lovely Anjuna beach and restaurant in Eze, a small village nearby Nice. Cool people, great food! We've had the most amazing Poulet fermier roti and Baked Seabass ever! Sipping an organic rose from the area of Cassis.

Nice, Lucy in the sun
And finally a small and well deserved tribute to Lucy, my 11 years old Jack Russel Terrier, who enjoys the seaside just like a labrador would do. As a matter of fact, her "sister" is Emma, my parents' black lab!