An effortlessly luxurious getaway

I have a discussion going on with my friend Daniel on what luxury should be today, particularly in the area of hospitality. Living in London one immediately looks at 5 star properties, to eventually find out that amongst all the opulence of the marbles, fabrics and chandeliers, it's on the details that most properties are losing the message.
When I think luxury I think of effortless, meaning a pair of Hunter boots available for clients going on a walk or a freshly picked salad and home made bread. In their simplicity, these things can cost money to be found, but more importantly they require some good thinking to be developed and kept in place.
And so last week I went for a quick weekday (a luxury by definition) getaway to the New Forest. Such a lovely place, just an little over an hour away from London. I had read several reviews about The Pig Hotel and its restaurant and I was really keen to try it. Basically a chic country house with 26 rooms, where I stayed in what is considered the smallest size, absolutely adorable and featuring a great view on the garden outside.

Speaking of gardens, we are talking serious stuff over there. Not only does the Hotel feature a massive garden where to walk, play tennis or enjoy a drink in the summer, but the chef also has a walled garden where all sort of greens are grown and are - as the menu states - "literally picked in the morning" to create for example a delicious Tempura Vegetables with Lemon Verbena and Baby Caper Mayonnaise. 
The whole menu is developed around the idea of "max 25 miles away", thus featuring products such as Hampshire partridge, Dorset snails, New Forest mushrooms and cured meats, and more seafood and meat from local suppliers. The dining room is cozy, resembling a chic nursery.

I booked my stay and dinner through their website directly, but a good gallery of images to get the full picture is also available on http://www.mrandmrssmith.com/luxury-hotels/the-pig/photos
As always, when I find a place I love I am torn between sharing the news or keep it for the few good friends who I am sure would enjoy the experience. In this case I am confident the place would not appeal to the masses, nor to those looking for bling. So we can keep it as a secret address.

Ciccio Supremo

I am a woman with expectations, never lied about it. One who tries a lot, likes a lot, complains a lot.
Talking of which, my passion for food has proved to be a challenging territory both personally and professionally.
When it comes to restaurants and food concepts, I realize that I have over time become picky, if not suspicious. It must be London, where so much is happening every day; restaurants, bars, pop ups launch, and it's all about the design, the food, the drinks, the experience, the chef in charge, the chef behind, the people....So many stories are made up (mostly for our fault, the PR people...) and I have recently gone back to appreciating the simpler, reassuring certainties of my favorite places rather than adventuring myself to be eventually disillusioned by the banality and poor substance of many.

So, my short trip to Italy a week ago turned out to be the most reassuring experience of recent times. Going to the usual places, those trattorie where you know you'll never be disappointed, where the chef or the owner is always around to come and say hi and share some of his "wisdom".
However, I had on my "to try" list a few new spots too. Such as Locanda del Colonnello in whimsical Modica, where chef Accursio Craparo has developed a peasant menu focusing on traditional dishes of the territory, and the most iconic Sicilian Cibo da Strada (Street Food) becomes an Antipasto, which is brought to the table simply in a bread bag.
But then something else was on the list. A very special invitation to dine at Ciccio Sultano's 2 Michelin star Ristorante Duomo in remote Ragusa Ibla. One that could have had all possible developments and conclusions.
Ciccio Sultano, I had experienced before, is a man by the intriguing character. He represents what, as a young lady from the North, I have always loved about men of the South: that natural mix of warmth-charm-culture-sense of humour, with a touch of grumpiness. And in this specific case with the huge bonus of supreme cooking skills.
As usual, I am not going into the details of each of the 14 amongst amuse-bouche, starters, pasta and desserts I have tasted (images below). I can only say it has been one of those moment in life when all my senses all of a sudden have reminded each other that oh! they could work together and generate such a state of... scrummy accomplishment. Grazie chef...

Cannolo with Caviar and raw Sicilian Red Prawn

The Spoons

The Cups

Rock Red Mullet Filled 
With Savona Bitter Orange and Cold Lemon Soup-Mojito
(From Sicilian Country To Cuba)

Spaghettino with Bisque on a bed of Leonforte Lentils

Truffle Ice Cream in crunchy Biscuit

Ciccio's Pasta With Sardines

Spaghetti with “Tuna Mussels”
Melissa Sauce, Thyme Citrodoro and Bergamot
And “Sammurigghiu Russu”

Happy Birthday to me! Cannolo Di Ricotta With Warm Prickly Pear Soup,
Served With Avola Almond Sorbet

Mini version of a Ricotta Cassata (front) and Baba'

The wines that matched the food, as suggested by Head Sommelier Valerio Capriotti...

Etna bianco Valcerasa 2009, Alice Bonaccorsi

Grillo 2008, Nino Barraco

Reseca 2006, Gulfi

Moscato della Torre 2011, Marabino

My favorite dishes in London- part 1
Last week Time Out magazine published a list of interesting food suggestions where instead of reviewing the establishments, food critics have come up with a shortlist of their most recent favourite dishes...
Not only did I enjoy it and I was pleased to see that some were my favorites too, but I thought of sharing a few of mine. Here is the first part....

Anchovy Toast @ Bistro Union

Selection of Charcuterie @ Terroirs

Quail's egg shooters with Bath Pig chorizo @ Mark Hix Bar

Grilled Ham, Bubble & Squeak, 2 Poched Eggs & Hollandaise @ Caravan

Classic Tortilla @ Barrafina

Buta-Bara yuzu miso (Grilled pork skewer with yuzu and miso) @ Zuma

 Turnip Cake @ Yauatcha

Hiya Hatsu (Cold noodle with hot broth) @ Koya

Crudo @ Pescheria Mattiucci

Mini Ibérico Pork and Foie Gras Burger @ Opera Tavern

The local restaurant: Bistro Union

Amongst my recent finds is this cool bistro in the heart of one of my favourite neighborhoods in London, recently launched by the same Adam Byatt of Trinity Restaurant in Clapham.
Not too much to say besides that - as I was in the area 3 times on the same week or so - I've been there twice already. It says it all.
Bistro Union is, like most of my favourite places in London and elsewhere, about simple dishes at  reasonable prices. It's the kind of place where you feel like trying a little of everything.
To start with, bread came with a butter to die for (if I remember well at Trinity they make their own butter, so that could be the reason). And then more Anchovy Toast came, or rather bread spread with a delicious Anchoiade sauce and a boiled Duck Egg on the side.
A fish finger had the size of a kid's sandwich, i.e in a couple of bites it was gone. But then again, so nice to try all the small dishes, which by the way start at £2...
We then had the simplest yet special Baked Aubergine with mint and cow's curd (which turned out to be sort of a ricotta), and a substantial Fish Pie (with salmon, white fish and peas).
Desserts all sounded intriguingly "retro" . We had the Poached Rhubarb and the Tapioca with raspberry jam. They both came with custard on the side, which as with the butter tasted of freshly made with some very special milk of some very happy cows.
The atmosphere and the crowd made me feel I wasn't in London but rather in a smaller village. And I wished I was a neighbour ...
www.bistrounion.co.uk

How to make an Italian fall in love (with London)

Last weekend the "effervescent" Monica came over to see me and Francesco and discuss our foodie project. She had not been in London for the past 9 years and we knew we had to make something special happen.

I truly enjoy putting together itineraries for friends and family coming over. The way I do it, any art & culture, walking or shopping experience is built around a stop at a bar or restaurant. And so with Francesco we decided that the foodie element would have been key to seduce Monica and to thank her for the amazing hospitality back in Bologna (see below images of the fab dinner she put together for us).

Starting with a tour of the Borough Market and walking all the way along the Thames and down to Embankment, our bespoke tour included the Tate Gallery and the Southbank Centre, not to see any particular exhibition but rather to show Monica how these venues are being used by people to meet, have a drink, enjoy the sun (if any...). 

Ending the afternoon with a glass of wine and padron peppers at Fernandez & Wells, followed by some amazing cocktails and dinner at Yauatcha completed the job. 

On Sunday morning all you can think of is coffee. Would have Monica ever thought that the best coffees in town are made by Australians? Of course not, and she loved the one we had at Allpress. 

After a relaxed tour of the Columbia Road Flower Market (always a hit on Sunday m.orning, especially before 11am), we headed to Albion for a brunch. This, I must say, is not my favourite of the moment. Fun atmosphere, nice choice of dishes, but portions are too small and too plain. Anyway, it was fun and it filled us with energies for an afternoon walk that necessarily led us to Fortnum & Mason where to get the most luxurios Jubilee themed Food.

To end the long weekend and as a farewell to Monica, Francesco and Cristiana decided to offer her a delicious dinner at their place, featuring hummus, roasted Nabulsi cheese, falafel, za'atar spice with grilled flatbreads (my favourite!), and Sindhi Biryani (prepared with rabbit on this occasion).

So once again through (non Italian) food another Italian fell in love with London. Monica, we loved having you here and we want you back very soon. xxx

Persone croccanti
Not sure if English people have such an expression as "una persona croccante", literally meaning " a crunchy (or crispy) person". Italians, or at least people in Emilia Romagna, do use it to talk of someone who is not necessarily young of age, but definitely of heart, active and passionate. I love this expression and surely will use it more in the future.
I've just come back from one of my foodie weekends with Francesco feeling so fulfilled by the generosity of people, their fantastic produce and the pride they put in what they do.
Being myself a (young) lady from the North, or as Fra would say a "savoiarda", I admit a lack of spontaneous passion by many from my region, Piemonte. Instead, every time I visit Bologna and Emilia Romagna I realize they have a completely different DNA, and for the best.
This is the picture of the loveliest group of Sfogline (traditionally the women who make fresh pasta). Having spent hardly 2 days with them making pasta, chatting non stop about tradition, chefs and recipes, and eventually enjoying the flavours and texture of the pasta during a delicious dinner at Monica's place, I now have very little words left and will leave it to these pics to say it all.

Daniela, Monica, their mom, and Rosa

Once again I visited my favourite restaurant in the area, of which I wrote twice last year. Once again Amerigo has not disappointed any of my guests. No need to say more...beside the fact that no, the below is not all I had by myself.

Roasted Calzagatti wrapped in lard, Giardiniera salad, Parmesan Cheese ice cream on a warm tigella bread and balsamic

Passatelli with sausage "mezzamatta" and crispy savoy cabbage

Caramelle with pumpkin and shaves of Parmesan Cheese

Tortelloni with Modena ham and cream of Parmesan Cheese

Baccala' (cod) Bologna style

Eggs new and old style with 2 winter truffles

Lambrusco wine sorbet

Mandarin sorbet and Crema come una volta

No need to say more

Vitello tonnato come una volta

Raggio di sole

Tajarin al ragu di salsiccia di bra

Monte Bianco

Castello di Neive Barbaresco, 2007

Amongst the stunning hills of Langhe in Piemonte, in the lovely village of La Morra, known by the experts for being one of the key regions of the Nebbiolo grape, the restaurant Bovio (formerly Belvedere) has been a point of reference for gourmands from all over the world. Their recipe: the classics of the tradition made to perfection + the best mushrooms and white truffle in season + one of the most complete wine selections of the area. Booking required especially during truffle season. 

A new Italian in town

Chef patron of celebrated La Rosetta in Rome, Massimo Riccioli is opening his eponymous London restaurant at the Corinthia Hotel today. I was amongst the lucky ones invited to a soft opening last week in the stunning dining room designed by David Collins Studio. The food was absolutely fantastic but more importantly  it reminded me of what Italian cuisine should be about: fresh ingredients, simple flavours, extra virgin olive oil and lots of fresh herbs. Massimo's ability to combine all of these elements in layers and textures makes him a true architect of taste. Although he once told me that his cuisine is not "Italian" but rather Sicilian (that's where he is originally from) with Mediterranean influences!

I met Massimo in early 2010 and worked together for a short time to promote his pop up restaurant inside the building site of the hotel. His culinary philosophy was very clear from the start and has now only taken "grandeur": not only he creates classic dishes from the very highest quality fish but also does he innovate by using every edible part of the fish to offer delicacies such as Tuna black pudding with fish skin crisps, Baked cod liver in balsamoka with sautéed spring onions and Porcini cookies or Monkfish tripe, in fresh tomato sauce, mint and Pecorino cheese. However I would also suggest going to Massimo's every time one fancied a great fish pasta accompanied by a glass of white wine; the "Spaghetti croccanti with red prawns"  and "Maccheroncini alle sarde" Oscar and I shared were to die for.

Massimo’s obsession with fish started as a child when his father, a former photo reporter with a natural passion for cooking, took over La Rosetta restaurant in 1965 and created the first restaurant in Rome to serve fish daily. Massimo would accompany his father to nearby fishing villages and choose the highlights from the catch of the day.  

The 150-cover restaurant will incorporate an oyster and crustacean bar, and an intimate private dining  with its own dedicated kitchen, just like the pop up but in greater style.

With this I take the opportunity of welcoming the Corinthia Hotel in London, headed by the most charming of hoteliers, General Manager Matthew Dixon.

www.massimo-restaurant.co.uk

www.corinthia.com/London/home