no Kitchen Orphan

Ricordo di un panino alla mortadella

"A memory of a mortadella sandwich" is how chef Massimo Bottura reinterprets a classic and very much basic tradition - mortadella sandwich, in his 2 Michelin star restaurant Osteria Francescana in Modena. This small entree was served with a glass of fine bubbles from Franciacorta (Ca' del Bosco, Cuvée Annamaria Clementi) introduced me to a delicious lunch last week in lovely Modena.
Bottura was crowned Best Italian Chef of the year by the Espresso guide. According to the food critics he best represents the "New Italian Cuisine" and as far as my lunch was concerned I agree. I admit I had some concerns on whether his dishes would be too experimental and "virtual". However, what I've found on the menu was a choice of traditional ingredients of the Emilia Romagna territory, re-interpreted in different combinations of flavours and textures.
I would have not missed a plate of Tortellini for anything. The choice on the menu was between Tortellini in brodo ( served in meat broth ) or with a cream made of Parmigiano Reggiano cheese and we opted for the second. At that point the waiter informed us that the kitchen had received in the morning the freshest cream from their preferred dairyman and that the suggestion of the chef was to serve Tortellini simply with cream and parmesan. Foreign readers should be aware that Tortellini alla panna is considered by the most an outrageous insult to the marvel of this little jewel of pasta. However, Bottura has dignified the dish and made it pure melting pleasure for the mouth. As choice of drink, we were served an artisan beer made with chestnuts. Divine. I found this picture of Massimo with his master of the tortellino, chef and "rezdora" Lidia Cristoni.

@ Nico Lusoli

Not enough time now to go through the "secondo piatto": I opted for braised veal cheeks, and drank a lovely red, Gutturnio from Colli Piacentini. Overall it's been a great posh lunch and we left with no regrets and no hunger, which for restaurants accompanied by "stars" is not always the case. Bottura has come to London a few times for Identita' London, the congress of chefs. If he comes back, he is not one to miss.